دانلود کتاب مواد آرایشی در درماتولوژی: رویکردی مبتنی بر مسئله

Facial skin receives the most attention in the realm of cosmetic dermatology because it is our outer expressive conduit to the world. It ages more rapidly than the rest of the skin due to its almost constant exposure to the sun. Decoration of the facial skin is a time-honored tradition among many of the world’s peoples. Most modern cosmetics are used to highlight facial features and camoufage facial defects. Te earliest cosmetic designed to cover facial blemishes was the beauty patch. Tese patches became popular in the 1600s because they were used to cover the permanent scars left behind on the faces of people who survived smallpox epidemics in Europe. Tese patches were black silk or velvet pieces shaped like stars, moons, and hearts that were carefully placed on the face. Patch boxes—shallow metal boxes with a mirror in the cover—were carried everywhere to keep replacements handy should a patch fall of in public. Modern facial cosmetics were developed from the decorative patches (1). Te concept of covering the face with a pigmented cream originated in the theater with a product known as “French White,” which consisted of face powder incorporated into a liquid vehicle (2). Tis was considered a novel improvement over simply powdering the skin due to its superior adherence. Later, “grease paints” were developed as thick, oily pigmented pastes, but they were not appropriate for wear outside the theater. Te frst major breakthrough in facial foundations for the average woman came when Max Factor developed cake make-up, which he patented in 1936 (3). Tis product camoufaged the underlying skin, providing a velvety texture with subtle color. However, the face is not only adorned with cosmetics, but it is also cleansed and moisturized. Cosmetics are used for hygiene purposes and also to maintain and enhance skin beauty. Harley Procter developed the frst widely marketed American facial cleansing soap in 1878 when he decided that his father’s soap and candle factory should produce a delicately scented, creamy white soap to compete with imported European products. He accomplished this feat with the help of his cousin James Gamble, a chemist, who made a richly lathering product called White Soap. By accident, they discovered that whipping air into the soap solution before molding resulted in a foating soap that could not be lost in the stream or bathtub (4). Tis resulted in a product known as Ivory soap, which is still manufactured today. Te excellent sebum removal aforded by the frst soaps created the need for moisturizers to compensate for the faking and dryness experienced. It is surprising that the very frst American moisturizer is still in use and known as Vaseline, as named by Robert A. Chesebrough, who manufactured and patented the concoction in 1872. Chesebrough originally recommended petrolatum as a chemical to treat leather; however, its value was soon recognized as a remedy for chapped hands and as a hair pomade. Later, petrolatum was adopted by the pharmaceutical industry as a vehicle instead of lard. It ofered the beneft of preservative-free stability because lard frequently turned rancid. Facial skin care has a rich history, but the modern formulations are clearly superior and better able to meet skin needs. Tis section of the text examines facial skin care from a disease-oriented approach. It examines the needs of the oily skin of acne, the dry skin of eczema, and the sensitive skin of rosacea. Cleansing, moisturizing, and the use of facial foundations are examined for these basic prototype groups. Te discussion then turns to the large category of aging facial skin to additionally encompass the realm of cosmeceuticals. Finally, the section focuses on the special needs areas of the face, specifcally the eyes and lips. It is hoped that at the end of this section, the dermatologist will understand how these over-the-counter products ft into the medical armamentarium.